The past few seasons Zac Posen’s luster seems to have faded; his collections haven’t lived up to the buzz his name once inspired. As his fame has grown and the line turned more commercial, his collections have suffered. This season is, happily, a re-birth for Zac and a return to his artistic roots, which have always been his strength.
Even with an early 9am show at the Altman Building, heavy hitting Vogue staffers, Wintour, Coddington and Goodman all turned up. Pre-show, the anticipation was palpable, building with each note that raced across Muri-Ben-Ari’s violin strings.
For Zac Posen, fall 2010 is about exposing the process of garment construction. The looks are fitted amalgamations of felt, silk, crepe and jersey with layered texture. Shapes slide across the surface creating sharp volume and pointed structure: floral corset busts in coned points; a zig zag wrap skirt crisscrosses sharply; raised felt jacket lapels blown by an imaginary gust; and our favorite, a magenta velvet and silk corset dress is a tactile dream.
The collection is acute and uncompromisingly artistic. We’re happy to report that fashion’s golden boy is back.
